You can fly as high as the air traffic allows in your area (check an air chart) but typically up to 2500' - 10000'. It's interesting to fly high once but you lose a lot of detail on the ground and you get no feeling of progress.
This all sounds simple but bear in mind you're carrying approx 27kg of motor, the propellor
is whirling around just behind your head and the wing is about 10 times the size of the largest
kite you've ever seen before.
It is also essential to keep the wing going straight into the wind by stearing it with the
brakes and keeping your body directly under the center of the wing.
There are brake lines on either side of the harness, pull the left brake to turn left
and right to go right. You can pull both brakes together to slow the wing down but there
is a risk of the stalling the wing. Some pilots like to fly holding onto the brakes all
the time while others leave them alone until they need to turn.
There are also trimmers and speed bars on many wings, these allow you to alter the shape
of the wing to make it fly faster or slower. It's best to wait until you have some time
in the air before playing with these.
BHPA :
They primarily deal with paragliding but will also teach people to
paramotor. If you want to paraglide as well as paramotor then this is
probably your best bet. They also have third party insurance and a
magazine. The only hastle is the time spent waiting for the correct
weather so you can learn to paraglide when you just want to paramotor.
BMAA :
They only deal with powered flight and it is quicker to learn
through them. Their qualification is the equivalent to the BHPA one.
They have a magazine but don't have third party insurance. I learnt
through the BMAA.
Independant instructors :
Many people have been flying for a long time and don't wish to
join either organisation so have set up independant schools. It's best
to talk with people regarding how good they are. Many people are very
impressed by some independant instructors.
Weight :
Everybody wants a light paramotor but you also need enough power to lift you off the
ground and powerfull paramotors tend to weigh more. Also bear in mind that the specs
for a paramotor are rarely accurate and weight in particular.
Economy :
Measure in litres per hour. The worst economy engines only allow you to fly for an hour
while the best can give up to 5 hours. Bear in mind it can be cold when flying and, I
don't know about you, but my bladder is ready to give up after a few hours!
Noise :
If the engine is very noisy then you'll just find people don't like you flying near them
and you'll get many complaints from people living near to where you fly. Try and respect
others and move away from farm houses and villages as soon as you can rather than continually
circling over their heads on a Sunday morning. I wish my own engine was quieter than it
is but such is life.
Fuel type and amount :
Nearlly all engines are two strokes but Paul Bailly has a 4 stroke engine out as well. With
two strokes you need to mix oil into the petrol before using it. It sounds complicated but
is actually quite easy. At some point we might have direct injection 2 strokes but none
have been built yet. Obviously the more fuel you have (up to a legal limit of 10 liters) then
the longer you can fly for.
Propellors :
Propellors come in different sizes, larger props mean more thrust but they can also produce
more torque reaction which can make things difficult for the pilot. A large prop also means
you require a large cage on your back which can make things difficult during a forward launch.
Cages :
The cage protects you from the propellor. They can be built in aluminium, steal or titanium.
They can come in many parts or not come apart at all. Many parts make it easier to transport
but does also weaken the structure a little.
Electric start :
Some motors are manual while others are electric start. Having an electric start adds weight
to the unit but does make life easier. My engine also charges the battery as you fly allong
just as it does in your car.
Hang points :
This is where the lines from the wing attach to your harness. High hang points give a more
stable flight but make it more difficult to stear while low hang points allow you to stear
by simply leaning one way or the other. It's great being able to fly allong with low hang
points feeling in total control of the wing but then with high hang points it's great being
able to fly through rough air and not feel your about to be thrown out your seat. Your choice.
Price :
Hopefully the price reflects the quality and features on the machine. It's up to you how
much you want to spend.
Location :
If you have a supplier just round the corner then they will be much more accessible
than one based in another country.
To avoid this some manufactures offset the weight of the engine, others fly with one brake
permanently on (annoying to do in practise) others adjust one trimmer to be slightly more
braked to provide the same affect without needing to raise your arm. Some harnesses have
torque straps which cancel the affect by redistributing the weight but this does means
another strap to adjust while flying.
Vario :
This tells you how your height is changing. Your height alters depending on
the throttle setting or whether you are in lifting or sinking air caused
by thermals etc. I don't have one but would like one.
GPS :
GPS units are now tiny. They will show you your height, speed and direction. They
can store routes and allow you to easily follow them while in the air. Best of all
they will show you the way back to where you took off - I'm terrible and would be
totally lost without one.
Compass and ar chart :
An air chart allows you to see where you are allowed to fly and to what height.
If you fly cross country then a compass can be very usefull.
Monocular :
A bit like a very small telescope. I find them usefull as I can read road signs
and work out where the hell I am.
Wind meter :
Can be usefull while on the ground and preparing for take off just to check the
wind speed and see if it is gusting etc. With time it get's easy to judge the wind
speed by feel.
Wind sock :
Put one up in the field you'll take off from and you'll know which direction the
wind is comming from and roughly how strong it is. It comes into it's own when
you are landing and want to check that the wind is still blowing in the same
direction !
On going costs are quite cheap, 3 hours flying for me is 10 litres of normal petrol and perhaps
£5-10 to a farmer for the use of his field.